porto porto porto

Saudade means a profound longing or lonelyness, the emotion you feel for someone you love is a long ways a way, in time, space, or emotion. You say, when you’re leaving your beloved, ‘Vou ter saudade de voce’ when you’re leaving, probably not on a trip, but when you know you won’t see them again for a while. It can be sad, but it’s also an expression of love.

Like I said, we were kind of staying in the tourist quarter, near the river, but the last day or two we wandered into town a little more; I went to a cigar shop and bought real Habanos, Cuban cigars, and the weather oscillated between clouds and sun. I think I was starting to get worn down from being on the road at that point.

And then, we went home.

Posted on 2024-11-19T08:45:11Z GMT

porto again

These pick up right where the pictures from yesterday left off. I had just walked by the guy in the bear suit playing bass, it was our second day in town and we were just walking around the tourist area near the Ponte Louis I, the arch bridge in a couple of these pictures. Lots of locals hanging around too, although it was obviously a destination and not as much a place people live.

The top of the bridge was maybe 100m longer than the bottom, and connected higher elevations of each side. The hills of Porto were steep enough around the river that there were stairs and a funicular that I didn’t get to ride (too crowded, didn’t want COVID). But the bridge was nice, top and bottom.

Went across, dodging the bright yellow trams, and took a cable car ride down to the side of the river. Nice way to see the city, good views all around. When we got to the end, we went to a little food hall, where there was a Brazilian spot serving Pao de quejio, brazilian cheese bread. It’s so good, and so cheesy.

I think after that we looked around at a bunch of little stalls in a street market that was set up, nothing I really wanted to buy though, so I didn’t. Took the tram back up the hill, walked back across to the Porto side of the river; at least according to the map, Porto is on the north side, and it’s another town on the other side. Our rental was up the hill a bit, just around the corner from some spectacular views.

We did end up taking kind of the long way home, wandering up into town, past some more modern shops and cafes. It’s a nice town, Porto. A bunch of people have said it’s similar to SF, in that both are tourist destinations, both are very hilly, both are on the west coast and enjoy a mediterranean climate. It’s also actually several cities bisected by a body of water, the bay here and the River Douro there. Neither is the biggest city on their respective coasts, both have a larger city to the south that starts with L (LA/Lisbon).

I think that’s where the similarities end, though? Porto is a very different geography really, away from the river it’s a plateau. The architecture couldn’t be more different; the building we stayed in was older than California. They speak Portugese, and when I tried to speak it, I think there was some confusion because I speak the Brazilian form and not theirs. Tons of walking, just way more than is possible in any city in the US save like, New York.

Good city though. Plenty of good wine, coffee and food. I’ve got one more set of photos and then it’s on to the next thing that happened. I have no idea what that is now, but I will soon.

Posted on 2024-11-17T10:21:41Z GMT

porto 2023

Been a while since I rapped at ya… These are from last fall, because I have once again let my backlog get way ahead of me… there are so many things from this year that I haven’t posted. Porto I didn’t post yet because it’s hard to edit down to something coherent and postable, but here I am posting anyway. Probably will be 2-3 posts? I’m trying.

This was kind of my half of our big trip last year; we try to go on a trip in the fall, and 22/23 were both europe, with Sun and Bass, a music festival, for the first week, and the second week usually somewhere else: previously Florence. I already posted the Sun n Bass photos a while back, but never got around to these, mostly because it’s a lot to get through and I always had a quick win that I could post and get on with things, and then… a lot of other things happened.

The first thing that happened is that I got serious about finishing San Pablo. I made a final edit, printed work prints, stared at them for two months, and finally sequenced them in what I’ve been calling ‘vibe order’. Then I put them in a really simply laid out photo book and had that printed through Blurb.

Then I decided for this fall, to take a cross country motorcycle trip instead of flying to Europe. That took a couple of months to prepare for, and a bunch of stuff that would normally live on here ended up over there. I may copy those posts over, or I may make a static site for it, not sure. I need to stop sending buttondown $30/mo to not send emails, for sure though.

I did that, published a newsletter post every day I was out, and then when I got back re-formatted everything into a magazine that I still need to to quite a bit of work to. I think I don’t like the way I designed it at all, and I might make it a small landscape book instead. Anyway.

Enough words for now. More Porto next time.

Posted on 2024-11-16T07:42:26Z GMT

driftwood retreat 2024

I had a teacher in high school who’s biggest pet peeve was the phrase ‘first annual’, because, she said, if it was the first, then there was no way for it to be annual. An annual event, in her mind, was something that happened over and over again, every year. So first annual was something of an oxymoron.

That said, I’m not sure she was right. It’s not wrong to say first of an annual series, if you intend to make it happen again. At worst, it’s a little aspirational. I don’t think that’s that much of a crime? Anyway, this was the first annual Driftwood Retreat I alluded to in the last post.

It was at a house somewhere in the Sierra Foothills, south of Tahoe. Not actually super far from here for a drive; I think we got out there in about three hours? but also we avoided traffic by leaving at 10am. I took my then-new Noctilux with me, and shot with it a bunch all weekend. Protip: if you are shooting and your main light comes from a digital projector, make sure your shutter speed is slower than the refresh rate. I shot some of these under a projected light at 1/200th of a second, and it caused all sorts of issues.

Some of the other photos I made black and white just because I feel like it. Either it was very dark or the light was monochromatic or blown out in one channel (which also happens when there’s only one color of light) and I don’t feel like taming the weirdness. The ones that can be color are.

Anyway, the retreat: a bunch of people came together to make music and art and meals together, away from all our normal worries and cares. Very chill vibes, good company, good times. There was a table big enough to lay out all the San Pablo work prints on, the first time I got to see the whole thing at once. Still working on the order for that, but I should be moving into book design soon.

Gonna push publish and go to bed.

Posted on 2024-06-07T07:48:47Z GMT

world's largest factory floor

These were from some months ago, driving out through the delta and across the central valley. The Driftwood spring retreat was out in the foothills, in a spot that was pretty ideal for a dozen or so people to descend and party it up. But first we had to get there.

Someone once told me the framing in the title, that California’s central valley wasn’t a collection of farms but a factory for turning the water from the sierrra snowpack into food. As we drove through it this time it was hard not to see it that way, as a vast organism of production. Incredible amounts of labor shape and reshape the landscape. Even the delta we started the trip in is a collection of man made dikes and islands.

Anyway. I should mention here that if you like this sort of thing, Matt does a travellogue, I’m going to be taking a trip later this year, in September, and sending out a pop-up newsletter to go with it. https://bigempty.photos/ if you’d like to sign up for that; the first issue in the archive has a little more background.

Posted on 2024-06-06T04:37:59Z GMT